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Children of La Tienda team members.I have been writing reflections about Spain and her culture over the past several years.  The prevailing theme has been that the bedrock of the traditional Spanish culture is the importance they place on being together as a family, including the extraordinary way they cherish their children.

A few years ago, this was the normal way of life throughout Spain: uncles and aunts, cousins and grandparents were next door neighbors.  They saw each other several times a week while shopping at the local market or at their favorite tapas bar.  Family members often worked together in the fields, operated local shops or manned the fishing boats.

It was a preindustrial society, where the natural cycles of the seasons, from planting to harvest, encouraged a stable way of life.  Even though there have been some profound changes in the social structure of Spain in the past 20 or 30 years, the foundational values of integrated family loyalty and mutual support are still in place.

The development of society in America over the past few generations has taken a different turn as waves of immigrants arrived from many different homelands. The new Americans gained a great deal of individual freedom because they were no longer bound by the customs of an older culture. However, it was at the cost of losing a sense of belonging.

As a result, the United States and Canada are young and flexible countries, but with fragile family roots.  It is not uncommon in America for parents to live in one state and their children to live hundreds of miles away.  I have friends who fly 4,000 miles from Richmond to Anchorage in order to see their grandchildren for a week or two each year!

This family separation was brought home to me while attending our annual La Tienda party.  Each year our family enjoys an evening with the La Tienda “family” thanking them for their hard work during the holiday rush.  This year was especially memorable because we were together in our new La Tienda retail store, a historic farmhouse and potter’s studio that we have transformed to reflect the ambiante of Spain.

As we enjoyed tapas with our employees and their families, I noticed that we were a veritable United Nations!  There were people from a dozen different countries: Portugal, Spain, Cuba, Bolivia, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Greece, India, Brazil, the Philippines, Puerto Rico and, of course, the United States.  Not that we had planned it that way, but this is America!

Most of these industrious men and women have come to the United States to make a better life, just as my grandparents chose to do around the turn of the 20th Century. But there is a cost, often overlooked, that is integral to their decision to come to America: they are separated from generations of their families who remain behind.

We were with many proud parents with their happy children scampering from room to room.  But most of the families there are not able to replicate the traditional extended family structure that Ruth and I and our children enjoy, and I write about in my Reflections.  They live far from parents and brothers and sisters whom they hold dear.  Their children do not grow up close to uncles and aunts, cousins and grandparents.

This is a significant loss.  They need to find other ways to maintain the family ties and make a healthy life for themselves and their children. But necessity is the mother of invention, especially in America.  What I learned in talking with our fellow workers is that some of them have been very ingenious in maintaining close ties with those back home.

One example is Nirav from India.  His father felt strongly that his family should eat together around a common table every day.  Nirav continues this tradition: he eats a meal with his family in India every week, even though they are on the other side of the world.  How does he do that?

Nirav and his parents have a standing appointment once a week.  Each Saturday morning Nirav gets up, takes a shower and dresses in a careful manner. Then he sets the table for breakfast in front of his computer.  When all the elements are assembled, he “Skypes” his parents in India.  Anticipating the call, Nirav’s parents have set the table for their evening meal.  When they are connected via Skype, Nirav and his parents share conversation and a common meal, or at least a common mealtime via video.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Skype, it is a wonderful tool, which you can have for free on your computer.  Once you download it, you can call other Skype users all over the world at no cost.  What if your family member or friend does not have Skype?  They can download it in 30 seconds.  If they do not have a computer you can use Skype to telephone them at virtually no cost.

Nirav has taken advantage of this remarkable new technology to be with his family on the other side of the world.  He told me wryly that he spends more time with his parents now than when he lived in India with the myriad distractions which are part of a young man’s fast-paced life. He has overcome the realities of 21st century life in which traditional bonds may be strained by geography.

Just as Nirav video calls his home in India, our friend Millie calls her family in Bolivia once or twice a week.  Here in the United States she is raising a happy family with her husband and two children, yet her ties to her family in Bolivia are not broken. She tells me that she never misses a birthday or a family occasion, and is in close touch.  Again, it is through Skype.

What I took away from that party with the Tienda community of workers is this: if you value close family ties and the healthy life they bring, you can maintain them, even in adverse situations.  You just have to be committed and ingenious.  Of course Nirav and his parents would love to be able to be in the same room, sharing a meal together and enjoying each other’s presence.  But that is not to be, so Skype makes possible a pretty good substitute.

What of the people back in the Old Country?  In Spain during the recent boom years, it was a little harder to maintain the traditional social structure.  There were the attractions and demands of the glamorous fast-moving new economy. The severe economic “crisis” has prompted many young Spaniards to reevaluate their new found autonomy and renew their traditional ties to their families.

I send my best to you and to those whom you love,

Don

This two part video is an excellent presentation prepared by my friend Hans de Roos who provides La Tienda with Can Solivera Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Wild Olive Oil by Can Solivera and the exquisite Can Solivera Extra Virgin Olive Oil Soap.

El Camino de Santiago de Compostela is one of the most formative influences in my appreciation of the depth of the Spanish culture. I have mentioned before that my first experience with Spain was when I stepped ashore in Valencia from a Navy Destroyer back in 1965 and immediately felt at home.

El Greco

El Greco, "View of Toledo"

The rest of the story was that the doctor on board and I caught a Talgo train to Madrid as soon as we could and headed for the Prado Museum. There I was overwhelmed by rooms full of El Greco paintings, some of which I had first seen as a child in an art book at home. I asked the guard where I could see more El Greco paintings and he directed my doctor friend and me to Toledo – Holy Toledo.

Toledo was another blockbuster experience for me as a young chaplain. But a random occurrence was to change and deepen my focus on Spain. I noticed an illustrated tourist folder on the Camino. I turned page after page and became more and more absorbed with the story of the pilgrimage route and the profoundly beautiful Romanesque structures along the way across Spain from France.

Ruth and I have traveled the Camino perhaps a dozen times since 1966 – all by car I will admit. We climbed around the mountain top town of El Cebrero before the steady stream of modern day pilgrims discovered it. There was even an open grave with scattered bones to the left of the windswept chapel in which some claimed was the Holy Grail.

Our son Jonathan walked the Camino for two months in the early 1990’s, and returned with his bride on their honeymoon. Ruth and I met Jonathan at the conclusion of his pilgrimage walk during that holy year.

Over the years we have formed bonds with pilgrims from all over the USA. Especially since the College of William & Mary and others in Williamsburg were some of the early movers to establish a gathering and format for fellow pilgrims whose hearts were draw to Santiago and the Camino for reasons best know to themselves.

This kind of bonding has grown with regular gatherings. The next one is 16-23 March at Winter Park Florida. You might find it a remarkably renewing experience. Check out www.americanpilgrims.com.

Shepherd In the early years of La Tienda, a young man named Tomás Lozano contacted me. At the time we were experimenting with many new products from Spain to discover what our customers would like. We featured ceramics, foods and a handful of hand-carved reproductions of medieval art, including wooden panels and crosses. He wanted to buy a polychrome cross as a gift for his wife Rima.

I was intrigued by who this young person with such an unusual request might be, since he was presumably raised in our progressively more secular age. As we talked over the phone at great length, I sensed that Tomás and I shared a close affinity with the spirituality of medieval art and sculpture. Over the years our friendship has grown, although we have never met each other face to face — only through emails and, even more, through my listening to a CD he gave me entitled Crisol Luz: Songs of the Middle Ages.

Tom’s family is from a tiny town high in the mountains northeast of Granada. His grandfather was a miller, who also owned a bakery, but it was confiscated during the Spanish Civil War, and to be safe he withdrew with his family to operate a very remote mill in the country. He died when his son was only 15, leaving Tomas’s dad to take over the mill. His mother’s family were farmers. When the Civil War started, her father was sent to the front and was only one of six survivors of a battalion of 200 men.

During the sixties both families moved to the north seeking employment, eventually settling far from Andalucía in an industrial section of Barcelona, where manufacturing opened new possibilities for them. It is there that Tomás was born in 1967, and grew up speaking Spanish at home and Catalan outside of the house. In addition, he learned French at an early age.

When Tomás reached his fifth birthday, it was time for him to begin learning what it was to be a man, so during the summer months his parents entrusted him to his mother’s uncle who had spent his life in the fields as a shepherd. There in Cataluña he lived as a shepherd boy, tending sheep side by side with his great-uncle, and “grew strong in the fields”, as Tomás describes it. He cherished those summers with his uncle strolling through the meadows among the sheep and the dogs, accompanied by birds that would perch in the groves of trees around them. He and his uncle Francisco would take naps and eat ripe figs and plums off the trees.

If you will take a moment, I invite you to get to know Tomás, in the piece he wrote for liner notes from his forthcoming CD entitled, The Morn of Saint John’s Day.

I remember what Uncle Francisco taught me. He, like all good shepherds of his time, would sing during the long walks and waits in the fields, watching the sheep graze in green pastures and along riverbeds. He played no instrument, but made good use of his strong, rasping voice and whistles which, to a boy hardly three feet above the ground, would frighten the wits out of me, so shrill and loud they were.

He knew a great deal of stories, songs, sayings and old ballads. He was a repository of popular culture. Too bad that I, too young to know better, did not record his wealth of knowledge, gather it somehow, besides what rubbed off on me almost by osmosis. I cannot remember the songs, but my mother tells me that (they were) among a long list of ballads. By the time I had my wits about me, the shepherd and his sheep had long gone. Ballads form part of my life and also that of my elders, farmers, millers and shepherds. My grandmother recited portions of the Conde Olinos to me as a boy and I especially remember an occasion when I fell asleep to the words, “That is not the little mermaid, mother/ nor the merman,/ but the son of the Kingly Count/ who for me is a wanting”.

As Tomás progressed to the higher grades of school he played Catalan folk music (including some from medieval days) with his fellow students. Soon they were playing in small clubs in Barcelona. His singing was particularly appealing in that it was enriched by his traditional Andalucian roots.

In 1993 Tomás and his fellow performers were sponsored by a Spanish ministry and invited to perform medieval and traditional music throughout North America. Their last performance was in New Mexico, where they became enchanted with its old Santa Fe families who spoke in a beautiful old form of Spanish. They had been carrying on the traditions of Spain for generations.

Tomás was astonished to be able to see traditions from the old Spain still alive in the United States. So he decided to stay a bit longer to experience this amazing place and then a bit longer until 14 years passed before he moved on!

During those years Tomás and his friends created a series of theatrical and musical shows that they took especially to the schools of underserved communities. In some cases they were very small villages, rural and isolated areas of the Hispanic towns and Native American communities. Many times they found that no one had ever before performed in their schools or community centers.

During those years while Tomás was immersed in the New Mexican traditions, he met a soul mate and now wife, Rima Montoya, who was a grad student at UNM. Together they wrote a book, published in 2007 by UNM Press entitled Cantemos al Alba – Origins of Songs Sounds and Liturgical Dramas of Hispanic New Mexico.

The most interesting thing that I found out from their research among many different Franciscan manuscripts from the colonial times is that by 1629 (nine years after Plymouth Rock), there were full orchestras and choirs in the New Mexican missions, where the musicians and singers were Native Americans from the different Pueblos. And by 1654, most of the missions also had an organ. It is an important part of the US musical history that is completely missed.

Over the years I have grown to appreciate what a remarkable and humble man this shepherd boy has become as a singer, musician, scholar and writer. Making sure that my memory was accurate before writing this reflection, I asked Tom for his recollection of our first contact:

During the time that Rima and I were doing the investigation for Cantemos al Alba, I discovered an interesting web site that had lots of things from Spain, La Tienda. Back in 2002, they had beautiful reproductions of medieval carvings from Spain. I was very interested in one particularly called “The Majestad,” carved originally by Batlló, so its common name now is “Majestad Batlló”. I wanted to get this carving for my wife who was away visiting her family, and I wanted to surprise her in her return.

I have always been in love with everything that has to do with the Romanesque. I don’t know exactly why, maybe because of its harmony, or because I grew up surrounded by Romanesque towns that it is such a part of me. I don’t know. So I called La Tienda and a gentle man answered the phone and almost instantaneously we had a great connection between the two of us; and that first conversation lasted an hour and a half. That man, to whom I hold a great friendship, even though we have never met in person yet, was Don Harris. This is a proof that human soul is beyond time and space.

As you can imagine, I am deeply touched by his warm remarks, and extend my warmest wishes to all of you and those whom you love.

Don

To learn more about Tomás Lozano, click here.

A Taste of Spain LogoI would like to introduce you to A Taste of Spain, a small boutique agency specializing in the design and organization of culinary tours and activities throughout Spain.  They serve both small private groups of food enthusiasts as well as food professionals.  It might be just the thing for you. I first learned about it from my friend Miguel Ullibarri whom I met when we were involved in our quest for Jamón Ibérico. He had been the General Manager for the Real Ibérico Consortium, coordinating the international promotion of the legendary Jamón Ibérico.

On the Dehesa

A Taste of Spain tour visits the cerdo iberico pigs grazing on the Dehesa.

The idea of A Taste of Spain was born in the late 1990’s in Madrid. Marta Angulo and Fátima Silóniz had been working together for almost 10 years coordinating the international promotion of the Foods from Spain through ICEX, a governmental agency. They decided to go out on their own, applying their knowledge and contacts to organize unique culinary experiences for food lovers interested in knowing and enjoying the foods and cuisines of Spain.

Marta is a food consultant, born in Burgos, who lived in the United Kingdom before moving to Madrid in the late 1980’s. Four years ago she had enough of big city life and moved with her family to live in the countryside close to Vejer (Cádiz). This delighted Fátima, her partner in this venture, who is a native of Cádiz. Fátima studied economics in Madrid and then worked in Sydney and New York City before returning to her beloved Spain, where she met Marta while working in Madrid at ICEX. In 2007, after almost 15 years in Madrid, Fátima moved to the ancient city of Cádiz with my friend Miguel Ullibarri.

The Taste of Spain Team

The Team at A Taste of Spain

Miguel was born in Bilbao, studied economics there in the Basque Country, then worked for two years for the Spanish Commercial Office in Sydney where he met Fátima. Together they moved to New York where Miguel studied at NYU and worked for an advertising agency. Finally he returned to Spain, working in Madrid in the Marketing Departments of Mars and Kellogg before joining the Real Ibérico Consortium. (He had the thankless job at Kellogg of having Spaniards eat Corn Flakes for breakfast!).

During this formative period for A Taste of Spain, Anne Marie Aznarez joined the company as its third partner. She was a close friend of Marta and Fátima, whom she met while she was working for the planner of the Alimentaria Food Show in Barcelona — the gigantic Food Fair which traces its roots to medieval times. Born in France, Anne Marie has lived in Barcelona for 30 years bringing to the project her deep knowledge of the Catalan food and cuisine, together with close contacts in the food sector of this region.

So you can see that this is a partnership of food “heavyweights” to coin a phrase.  I cannot think of a comparable concentration of talent. They have in common a deep appreciation of the foods and regional cuisines of their country.  They know the landscapes, the farmers and producers, the chefs, and the way people live and enjoy their food in Spain. And, above all, they enjoy working together to share their love of Spain with others.

This certainly resonates with our philosophy at La Tienda.  They want to keep developing slowly as a small specialized company offering the best possible service in their field and are happy to provide unique culinary experiences in Spain to our clients and friends. They believe in partnering with some of the finest and most responsible, building a close relationship with Institutions such as Slow Food or the CIA as well as food journalists, chefs, and importers.

So there you have it.  If you think you would like a tailor-made food experience guided by some warm and knowledgeable people, this might be something to consider. Drawing from their experience they can put together a satisfying itinerary for you, whether you go on your own, or with guides provided.

At www.atasteofspain.com you can check some set tours, based on what their previous clients preferred, and other culinary proposals throughout Spain, including private cooking classes (traditional and avant-garde), guided tapas tours or food & wine tastings.

In 2007 our hometown of Jamestown was abuzz, for the Queen of England was coming to visit – she had been away for 50 years!  She came to celebrate the founding of the first English settlement in North America 1607 (13 years before Plymouth).   She also visited my alma mater in Williamsburg: The College of William & Mary in Virginia – the only university in America with a royal charter (1693).  Many people view this as the birthplace of our Nation.

Few are aware of what happened at that spot along the James River thirty-six years before, and how the history of America might have been quite different.  It is the extraordinary tale of a lost Spanish colony in Virginia and the men who died trying to bring the Christian faith to the Ajacan Indians.  As I am no historian, I have pieced together several accounts in order to bring you the story.

Spanish Map of Chesapeake Bay

Map of Chesapeake Bay by Diego Gutierrez, 1562. From Library of Congress, Geography and Maps Division.

In 1571, eight Jesuit missionaries were killed by hostile tribesmen at the mission they founded on Virginia’s Lower Peninsula, near the Chesapeake Bay.  It was close to the site where the English would permanently settle just thirty years later.

In the summer of 1526, The Spaniards first landed in Chesapeake Bay and attempted to colonize the area.  Fifty-six later, after the slaughter of the missionaries, the Spanish withdrew.  About ten years later Sir Walter Raleigh claimed Virginia for Queen Elizabeth I.

It all began when Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon, with an expedition of 600 other settlers, sailed from Santo Domingo (now the Dominican Republic) with an expedition of six hundred settlers.  Entering the Capes along the Chesapeake Bay, they sailed up what is believed to be the mighty James River, the same river English settlers used when they settled in Jamestown in 1607.

Initially they settled near the Indian town of Guandape, but the conditions were so severe for the Europeans used to a Mediterranean climate, that many, including Ayllon died of fever generated in the surrounding wetlands.  The Spanish colonists endured a miserable winter fending off hostile Indians, and finally called it quits  in the spring of 1527.  By that time 450 Spaniards, three quarters of the initial company had died.

Despite Ayllon’s failure in 1526, there were continued Spanish expeditions to the Chesapeake Bay, and in 1560 captured the son of the Indian chief, and brought him to Mexico where he was baptized Don Luis, in honor of his sponsor.  Then he was sent to Madrid, introduced to king Philip II and  given a comprehensive Jesuit education.

Ten years after his capture, the convert Don Luis returned to his homeland.  He was the guide and interpreter for a small band of Jesuits who sailed from the port of Havana to the Santa Elena settlement in South Carolina in August 1570.  This was the final stop-over before heading to Ajacan (Virginia).  The only surviving eyewitness of the mission was Alonso de Olmos, the boy who accompanied the Jesuits as their altar boy and assistant.  He was probably between the age of twelve and fourteen.

On September 10, they came ashore in Ajacan. Many historians locate the area to be at Queen’s Creek on the north side of the Lower Peninsula, near the York River. Others say it was  near the Diascund Creek where it flowed into the Chickahominy River. Both spots are close to one another – and both are close what would be the later English settlement in Jamestown.

Naively, they trusted Don Luis to lead them to his native village which he had not seen in ten years.  What Don Luis found was a people ravaged by drought and famine.  When contact was finally made, the relatives of Don Luis, according to the boy’s account “seemed to think that Don Luis had risen from the dead.”

Don Luis was on his best behavior during the first days when the ship’s crew of Spaniards  helped to get the missionaries settled. But as soon as the ship disappeared over the horizon, the Jesuits realized that they were left completely at Don Luis’ mercy and his demeanor began to change.

No longer was he constrained by the mores of Spanish civilization, he embraced polygamy and shed his Christian veneer.  Fr Segura assented to Don Luis request to visit his uncle, the reigning chief.  Days turned into weeks with no word from their native guide.  According to the sole survivor, the young Alonso, the Jesuits braced themselves for the worst.

1585 Illustration of a Powhatan Indian by John White

The leading Jesuit sent a message to Don Luis, because they were in a difficult situation: they had no one to make themselves understood to the Indians.  Until the beginning of February they got along as best they could, going to other villages to barter for corn with copper and tin.  As he had twice sent for him and he had not come, he decided to send Father Quiros and Brother Gabriel de Solis and Brother Juan Baptista to the village of the chief near where Don Luis was staying.  As they approached, Don Luis appeared before the three Jesuits and sent an arrow through the heart of Father Quiros, before killing the rest

Leaving the deputation of three Jesuits dead or dying in the forest, the Indian party swooped down on Fr. Segura’s encampment.  Don Luis assigned one native to one Spaniard each, and killed them all at once. The boy, Alonso, at first rushed in amongst the Indians to try to prevent the killing, but was held back by Don Luis’ brother who hid the boy in a nearby hut, sparing him from the slaughter of the other Spaniards.

Young Alonso made his way to a rival chief who lived close to the main coast on the Chesapeake Bay. There he waited for approximately two years until the relief expedition arrived in 1572.  During that timehe had no opportunity to converse in his native language.

The English colony at Jamestown faced similar harsh conditions generated by the environment of the wetlands and the attacks of the Indians. Its survival was touch-and-go for many years. Even as late as 1622—fifteen years after Captain John Smith first landed on the James Peninsula—the settlement was nearly wiped out in an Indian raid which claimed 347 lives.

The Indian chief who sought the destruction of the Jamestown settlers was the aged Openchancanough. As legend would have it, he was the same Don Luis who had betrayed Fr. Segura and his companions in 1571.

A more thorough account from the Roman Catholic perspective can be found here.

Folk Dancing in La Alberca

I thought I’d send along our tales from the La Alberca trip.  Since it’s about a 6 hour drive up there from El Puerto de Santa Maria where we live, we stopped in Caceres for lunch.  I had never been before and it was amazing!  I definitely want to go back when we have more time.

After a long drive, with a few stomach churning turns through mountain roads, we arrived in La Alberca.  That night we [Amy, Tim and their two boys] ventured into the village to find some dinner. It was completely dark and vacant, as if the place had been abandoned around 700 years ago.  Definitely, a little spooky.  We were seriously hoping it would be a little more welcoming in the light of day.  (It was.)

Our first stop the next morning was to see the fighting bulls.  There were about 20 in a stone-walled pasture.  The bulls were large and black, with huge necks and shoulders, just exactly what you’d expect, and very impressive to see those close up.  The boys (large and small) wanted to sit on the wall and goad the bulls, but were quickly shooed away.  We definitely got the sense that there should be no messing around, and everyone was instructed to be quiet and move slowly.

Next we went to see the Iberico pigs. They were fantastic to see!  We weren’t quite able to pat any of them, but we were pretty close!  At one point one of the chefs started a mini stampede, and a pack of hogs was running right towards our 7 year old son Ben, but he was delighted!

Saturday we went into the village for the pig festival.  Each June the village adopts a piglet, which is blessed and “baptized.”  From June until January the piglet roams freely around the town, and people feed it scraps.  Our waiter told us that he sees the pig everyday and that it has a certain sleeping spot just down from the town square.  In January the pig is raffled off, with the proceeds going to the church.  The winner of the pig can do whatever he likes with it, including the most usual option, which is trading in the pig for some already-butchered meat.

In the town square there were bonfires, lots of people in traditional medieval costume, and typical wares of the region.  There were drummers, and recorder players, and traditional dances.  Santiago Martin is the customary Grand Marshall of the fiesta, and he presides over the activities in traditional dress.  This year he let Jose Andres have the honors.  Speeches were made, the pig made its appearance and was raffled off, although it was so crowded we couldn’t actually see what happened to the pig.  Afterwards, long tables with food and wine were set up and everyone (several hundred people) ate and drank – for free!

It was another rich experience for our family, and especially our two young sons, Sam and Ben.

Echoes of Faded Glory

Dear Friends,

Modern Spain is complex — an amalgam of medieval kingdoms.  In fact the autonomous region of Navarre still refers to itself as the “Kingdom of Navarra.”  I find it fascinating when I stroll the streets of many historic towns of Spain to recall the “place in the sun” they once enjoyed. It is a good way to put things into perspective, and to realize that the concerns we may think are so crucial today, are actually so ephemeral.

TordesillasThe city of Córdoba comes to mind.  It is a pleasant regional city in Andalucía, which I visit quite often.  Yet it was quite different 1,100 years ago.  At that time Córdoba represented the zenith of Islamic culture, rivaling Babylon, Rome and Baghdad in magnificence and importance. It was viewed by many as the greatest city on earth. At a time when few Christian monarchs could write their names, Córdoba had a library of half a million books, and possessed far more wealth than all of European Christendom. Scholars and artists abounded.

Córdoba had a thoroughfare stretching along the bank of the Guadalquivir River that was used for elaborate public processions. It had an astonishing array of shops with products from China, India, Central Asia, and the Near East.  The royal market for luxury goods, al-Qayseriyya, was fabled. Taverns, caravanserais, baths, and inns served the merchants and other travelers who flocked to this the most important cultural center of the western Mediterranean.

Córdoba had nine hundred public baths, and countless private baths at a time when baths were a rarity in the rest of Europe. Six hundred years later there still was no effective sewage system in the largest cities of Europe.  Many posit that it was the influence of this flourishing Moorish culture of Córdoba that gave the Spanish people that unique sense of personal dignity and courtesy that they still possess. Perhaps it is the best gift we received from the glorious Moorish culture.

Today the splendor of that magnificent culture has faded.  All that remains of Córdoba’s glorious days is the Mesquita: the Mosque, now called La Catedral. Should you choose to enter one of the Mosque’s nineteen doors, you find yourself in a forest of more than 860 slender columns of marble, porphyry, and jasper that support a timber roof, arches richly decorated with scarlet and gold. Hundreds of years ago 280 huge silver or brass chandeliers burned perfumed oil to illuminate the interior on special occasions.  The largest was 38 feet in circumference with 1454 lamps. Fitted into its reflector were 36,000 plates of silver, riveted with gold and decorated with jewels.

The Mosque of Córdoba was as sacred to medieval Islam as the sublime Hagia Sofia in Constantinople was to Christendom.  Is it not a monument to the folly of man that the two greatest religious structures in the West have been reduced to museums by bitter religious rivals?  Still, when I visit either of them, I experience a little of the sense of the divine which inspired their builders.

There are many other cities of faded glory in Spain that are intriguing to visit even though they have a less monumental aspect. One is Tordesillas, a few miles west of Valladolid, where a treaty was drawn up in 1494 which affected all of the New World.  It was clear after Columbus’ discoveries that conflict would soon arise over land claims by Spanish and Portuguese explorers.

On May 4, 1493 Pope Alexander VI took action to clear up any confusion that may have arisen. He issued a decree which established an imaginary line running north and south through the mid-Atlantic, 100 leagues (480 km) from the Cape Verde islands. Spain would have possession of any unclaimed territories to the west of the line and Portugal would have possession of any unclaimed territory to the east of the line.

After further exploration, the Portuguese grew dissatisfied with the agreement when they realized how much more land Spain had been given. In June of 1494 the line was re-negotiated and the agreement was officially ratified during a meeting in Tordesillas. The Treaty of Tordesillas re-established the line 370 leagues (1,770 km) west of the Cape Verde Islands.  There were many unanticipated, if tragic, consequences.

TordesillasBut the Treaty may not be the most fascinating period in Tordesillas’s past, even if it might be the most astonishing from our modern perspective.  Originally a bulwark of the defensive line of the Reconquista, Tordesillas received its charter in 1262 from Alfonso X, the Wise.  Eighty years later, his grandson Alfonso XI built a substantial castle with adjoining convent.  Alfonso’s son, Pedro the Cruel, embellished it in the style of the Alcazar in Sevilla.  It was there that he abandoned his bride Blanche de Bourbon on their wedding night, locking her up in the palace and Convent of Santa Clara in order to run off with his lover, María de Pedilla. Ultimately Pedro gave the convent and palace to his two illegitimate daughters by Maria.

Ah but if that were not enough intrigue for one little town, Princess Juana, the troubled daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella became Queen of Castile in 1504, only to be overwhelmed with grief when her beloved husband Philip the Handsome died in his prime only two years later.  Although she remained a monarch, in name only, she was confined in the convent from 1509 to her death in 1555, a melancholy period of 46 years.

Tordesillas now?  It is a transit hub for trucks going from Madrid to Salamanca and beyond, with a population of 8,643 souls. Agriculture is its basic source of income.  Although it is situated on the Duero, the river silted up long ago.  When Ruth and I decided to visit the Convent of Santa Clara, we parked our car in a broad area, almost like a playground. While young boys were playing soccer energetically nearby, we slipped into the convent.  In the chapel remnants of the past still echoed, not only in the elaborate ribbing of the ceiling, but also in the silent harmonium that Juana enjoyed playing as she whiled away her hours and years.

Then there are the cities of Cartagena, Zamora, Oviedo, Soria, Ciudad Rodrigo, El Burgo de Osma, Sanlúcar de Barrameda – my list is long. As I said at the beginning, a way to gain a healthy perspective is to know what has gone before.  Our country is so young that it is harder to do that.  But when you dig into an ancient culture such as Spain’s, you learn that much of human endeavor fades.  What is lasting are the bonds of love we share with family and friends.

My best wishes for a productive and Happy New Year!

Don

Three dates to keep in mind if you are planning a trip to Spain this year:

11-21 February – Carnavál in Cádiz

Carnavál in Cádiz

I have written extensively on this wonderful event.  Please search “Carnaval” or “Cádiz” in the search function of my blog.  If you have kids, go on Sunday afternoon, 21 February, when the Goddess of the Carnival will lead many floats filled with happy children down the streets on Old Cádiz.  For older revelers, just about any night is fun – lots of music and dancing in the streets.  Definitely not a raunchy experience – but hardly a staid one, either.

10 – 17 May – Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera

Feria del Caballo in Jerez

The fair grounds of the stately sherry town of Jerez are full of handsome caballeros on horseback with their beautiful señoritas riding side saddle dressed in their spectacular flamenco dresses. The older members of the aristocratic sherry families promenade in 19th century horse drawn carriages, and the streets are full of happy children darting between the casetas (pavilions) of their families.  Bullfights too!  Search “Jerez” to read some articles.

25 July – Feast Day of St. James, Spain’s patron saint, in Santiago de Compostela

The medieval town of Santiago de Compostela is an amazing place to visit any day, any year.  The ambiance, the architecture, the stone arcaded streets all are a setting for pilgrims who flock from all over the world.  They come for many reasons, and, in this age we live in, not just for pious ones.  Some may want he invigoration 2oo mile long walk across Northern Spain along the Camino de Santiago.  Many want time to meditate and think along the way.   But the core of the people in Santiago are the devout who have been coming here for over 1,000 years.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Warm and friendly crowds gather in the Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the cathedral to witness a grand celebration including a light show flashed on the Cathedral walls.  When we were there last it portrayed the marauding Moor Almansur, and of course the triumph over him through the inspiration of Santiago (Saint James).  This is a holy year, since the feast day falls on a Sunday.  Perhaps King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, along with a flock of cardinals (people, not feathered creatures).

Have fun!  Don Don

Amy, Tim, my eldest son, and their two boys have just arrived in Andalucía for a six month stay, or shall I say “adventure.”  The boys, 7 and 9 will be attending a small Spanish/English school in Jerez de la Frontera — just as their father had done 36 years ago — except he was at El Centro Inglés in Puerto, when I was in the Navy.

I am including a portion of an entertaining email from Amy. It is an account of Three Kings Day — the boys’ first encounter with Spanish culture after growing up in staid, very Anglo Williamsburg.  I remember when we took Tim and Jonathan to Tres Reyes in Jerez many years ago we experienced the same variety of reactions from the crowd that occur today.  We saw one of those aggressive mothers who pushed aside a little boy as she grabbed one of the soccer balls that were being distributed!  And there was also a similar caring mother who looked out for all the children in her area.  Times never change.

Three Kings Day in Jerez

Last night we went to the legendary Tres Reyes (Three Kings) parade in Jerez.  It far surpassed all of our expectations!  It began with the three kings, elaborately costumed and on horseback, and was followed by bands of all sorts, bagpipers, real camels (frothy and indignant), various costumed groups of knights, moors, Africans, Romans.

And then there were the candy barges.  Costumed children would ride by on spectacular floats, and would fling hard candies (caramelos) at the crowd.  We soon saw why people brought umbrellas and turned them upside down.  After a few of these hurlings, I learned to cover my head because hard candies on the head hurt!  Ben was in all of his glory, scrambling under feet to gather up free candy.

I was conflicted – the polite mid-westerner part of me, who never wants to push or shove, was quickly over-powered by the fierce mother who doesn’t want her children to be lost in the crowd or trampled under feet or floats!  Sam was both appalled and intrigued by the mother next to him who actually shoved him out of the way to make room for her 8 year old son.

There was another mom right next to us, who was very carefully shepherding all the children, including ours, each time the floats came by, which was very nice.  I think there was a collective maternal holding of the breath each time a candy barge came by!  But there were walkers posted at each of the corners to make sure kids were out of the way.  I also didn’t mention that the parade was so long that Sam was begging to go by the end!  Ben, of course, wouldn’t leave if there was a possibility of even one more caramelo to be had.  I really have never seen, in person, a parade of that quality — wow!  I mean guao!  (Is that how you spell it?)

Tres Reyes in Jerez de la Frontera

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